Sunday, February 26, 2012

Rochambeau Fall 2012

Rochambeau: it can refer to rock, paper, scissors, sack tapping, a middle school in Connecticut, or the menswear line. If you put it in context, I'm obviously going to be discussing the latter, but you never know. Sometimes I throw a curve ball.

I've always found menswear difficult. I don't know why, but I put it into a completely separate category from women's fashion (well, the difference in gender might be part of it). Like, how do people design clothing for guys? All Most of the males that I know wear the same articles of clothing over and over again until they rip into barely wearable pieces of cloth, at which point they continue to wear them. I'm not even kidding. Perhaps that's why I have never understood how people like Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler (designers of Rochambeau) design their lines. Maybe that is why going to see their Fall/Winter 2012 presentation during New York Fashion Week was such a pleasure. I'm sure it was in part due to the fact that I got to miss English and science class for it, but "in part" are the key words.


The day that I saw said show was undoubtedly the best day of fashion week, by far. That was the day Bill Cunningham took my photograph (while I was waiting in line to get into Rochambeau, nonetheless). It was the day I met up with a few of my fellow editors from Chictopia. It was also the day I sat third row at a runway show in the tents. February 15th was also my cousin's birthday. Cons: I had a grammar test and I almost wasn't allowed to leave my school because of maniac security guards, but that's irrelevant, because even though it was extremely complicated, and I thought fake crying always works I was able to leave eventually.

Let me set the scene: you're in an odd desert jungle (I realize this does not make sense geographically but just go with it) with bizarre tumbleweeds hanging from the ceiling (sky?). The people are impeccably dressed men gypsies, with leather backpacks and/or neck pouches. Some wear hats or sunglasses to shield their eyes from the glaring lights sun, while others are still obviously unadjusted to the climate change and are in well-tailored but unusually colored suits. Most have long (and I am talking long) hair, but some have more cropped cuts. Many of them are wearing not fingerless, but palm-less leather gloves. All of them have something leather on them (and with good reason: leather is supah badass). Needless to say, this is a motley crew. But it all somehow works. Despite the obvious differences in appearance between these highly attractive men, there is a sense of community and harmony between them. They are all surviving in this jungle/desert together, one way or another. Some may choose to embrace their natural environment and wear mesh sock footwear, but some may stay in touch with their industrialized side and wear combat boots. The whole collection is quite metaphoric, with the varying clothing styles representing the differences in people, but the primitive aspect of it reminds one of the cutthroat world we live in, and how everyone is trying to survive. It's funny that I concluded all of this, seeing as one of the designers told me their inspiration was something to do with pagan gods and fire, or something like that. Totally not the same vibe I was tapping into.

How about I just show you the collection and you can decide for yourself?

Black and white: simple so far.

And then we zoom in. It's a leather collar.

Rocking the black on black on black on black on black look, with combat boots and palm-less gloves to complete the look.

This guy's got a leather backpack and a leather neck pouch. Can we be friends?

I think that's a yes.

This dude has some serious fishtailing skills.

Gypsy cowboy. I can dig that.

Yowza! Those sunglasses get me every time. 

I know that Native Americans used to keep tobacco in their neck pouches. I wonder what he's got in there...?

A brimmed hat with--yep, you called it--a leather strip wrapped around it.

"I'm too cool for this."

He was completely decked out in leather. Like, nearly head-to-toe. He was kind enough to point out his leather backpack with tassels of the same material dangling from the bottom. Thanks, bro.

"Say cheese!" "No." 

I've said it before and I'll say it again: you simply cannot go wrong with a leather jacket. 

...Especially not one with such snazzy seams and zippers. 

That is a fine head of hair. And a pretty sick jacket, if you ask me. If you, in fact, asked me.

He really went all out with the whole "I'm living in the wilderness" thing, didn't he?


More cowboy gypsies! Hooray for nomads! 

They unintentionally mirrored each other's foot movements. How cute.

Pay special attention to his leather-covered fingers.

And his, too.

The designers themselves! 

Wasn't that wonderful? Beautiful men, beautiful clothing, oodles and noodles of leather...what more can you ask for in life?

Fast forward to after school that same day, when my friend Caroline (after interviewing her and our friend Sadie for my "Can I Have Your Closet" project) took some outfit photos for me. She's a newbie blogger, so check out her blog if you'd like!

Camisole: Gap/Denim vest: Chico's via Savers (and then tailored by me)/Pants and socks: my mom's/Ostrich feather jacket: John Pappas Furs via my grandma via her dad/Glitter platforms and bag: made by me

What are you looking at? Oh, me? Right. That would make sense. 

Despite the fact that this post is going live past midnight, we're counting it as a post for February 25th, okay? 'Cause there will be another one within the next 18 hours. That one gets to be for February 26th. 



Thursday, February 23, 2012

A Little Layering

If I've learned anything from our good friend the Man Repeller, it's that layering is essential. I like to think that I drive a lot of traffic to Leandra's site. Let's skip backwards in time a few days to Monday, February 13th, 2012. How was that already ten days ago?? I'm actually so confused as to how that happened.

I originally bought this Naf Naf jumpsuit in France intending to wear it as... a jumpsuit. It turns out that I like it better as pants. The last three times I've worn it, people say, "I love your pants!" and I'm secretly shouting, "IT'S A FREAKING JUMPSUIT CAN'T YOU TELL?!" but obviously they can't because I've put a top over the bodice. The irrationality of my anger doesn't make it any less existent.

I'd say possibly half of my wardrobe was originally my mom's (the other day I was wearing a jumpsuit, belt and cardigan that were all hers. My shoes were my cousin's and my socks could've been mine, but they also could've been someone else's first. I felt like a fraud.), and the silk button down I'm wearing below is no exception. She has supplied me with several silk shirts. They make me feel very classy.

Speaking of my mom, she was going to throw out these sunglasses, and when I saw them I was all over that. I'm a bit obsessed with cat-eye sunglasses but I can never find ones that don't make me look like an evil librarian.

Photos taken by Octavia Bürgel in Lincoln Center while we people-stalked. 


Painful smiles are the best. Look, it was cold outside, okay?

Jumpsuit (worn as pants): Naf Naf Paris/Silk blouse: Torriani/Military jacket: Hamlet's Vintage/Coat: New York & Company/Boots: my grandma/Sunglasses: my mom/Headband: Missoni For Target

Funny story about these sunglasses: I can't see out of them. Oops.

Wonky hair 2012! Check out that unruly lock just chilling in the background of this shot, thinking it could go unnoticed. I'm not letting it. I am putting a dunce cap on it and sticking it on a stool in the middle of the room. 

This was so awkwardly disproportioned that I just had to share it with you. My mind is blown as to how this is visually possible. Help a brother out and let me know. 

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Mathieu Mirano Fall 2012

If I were to sum up the Mathieu Mirano Fall 2012 show in four words I would say: medieval Asian warrior princess. It may seem like I just stuck four adjectives together and didn't string together a comprehensive thought that would make for a clear mental image. That's because I did. Let me elaborate. Imagine Mulan (Asian warrior) mixed with Princess Fiona from Shrek (as a human, not an ogre (medieval princess)). Is that better? I was also getting a bit of an Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2011 and Fall/Winter 2010 feeling.

I can't speak for the designer, but I felt that the vibe really was about this whole warrior idea. The modern woman has to fight so hard to be successful (cue the feminist protestors in the background). Society has created this stereotypical bitchy power-driven woman who is always at the helm of massive corporations to be the model for all eminent and lucrative women. That's the personality that everyone has come to expect, so often powerful females turn themselves into these heartless, manipulative people just because that's the only way they'll get on top. The princess part comes into the whole equation because Mathieu Mirano (probably) wanted to show the softer, feminine side of said tough woman. Princesses are notoriously weak little mushballs (do with that description what you will), so the juxtaposition of hard versus soft, as over-used as it is, fits this situation quite well. The styling was spot-on: the tight but slightly undone buns, (somewhat) nude makeup and pointy pumps are the perfect mix of  business woman and kick-ass chick. Also I'm obsessed with the jewelry. You'll see why in a minute. I'm still at a loss as to what the Asian aspect is, but I just see it. Maybe it's just me? Judge for yourself. The pictures are below.

These three looks just scream "McQueen" to me. Anyone else? No?

I'm pretty sure those are all sequins. I would cry if I had to hand bead that. 

It's all fun and games until she kicks you with her point gold-capped-toe heels. 

Pointy heels are a thing now, so it's no wonder they were all over this show. 

Perhaps this is where the Asian influence came from in my head.

I loved this dress so much that it shows up twice in this post. (See directly below)

There it is again!

If that dress slipped just an inch...

Pleated leather skirts: preppy school girl gone goth. I can dig that.

All of the hair looked just a little bit wet, not Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2012 wet. That was a little nasty, and totally impractical for every day purposes. 

Mini, discreet peplum? Yes?

That cuff is going to be mine. That's just a thing that needs to happen.

It's going to be okay. Calm down.

Reminiscent of medieval armor, methinks.

I loved the mullet hemline of this dress (you can see that part better in the photo right above this one), as well as the print that sort of reminded me of a bull. 

We already discussed how I'm (still) obsessed with burgundy.

You can't go wrong with a classic leather jacket. Well, you could, but Mathieu Mirano didn't.

You see now why I want all of the jewelry, right? Perhaps the animal accessories is where the Asian inspiration idea in my brain came from. You know, like the zodiac calendar? It's a thing, I promise this didn't come from out of nowhere. 

She's working on her Blue Steel.

Give me a velvet maxi dress and I'm happy for the rest of my life.

 Are those Louboutins I see? 

All the models, j-chillin' on platforms. 

I figured it out: it's the red-gold color combo that got me. Red+gold=Chinese New Year. China is in Asia. Come at me.

This reminds me of Mushu! Try and tell me you don't see the resemblance.

The designer (the head on the left) explaining something about his work. I thought he was going to be French and not speak much English, but he was so American that it was a little shocking. 

This was definitely one of my favorite shows that I saw. You can see why; it's freaking gorgeous. 

I still have plenty more fashion week stuff to write about--don't get tired of it yet.