Showing posts with label Huffington Post. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Huffington Post. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

The Right To Be a Woman

"Feminism is the radical notion that women are people."
--Cheris Kramarae and Paula Treichler


I never really understood why feminism existed. In my earlier years, that was because I was considerably ignorant on the subject. I grasped the fact that women have never been socially, economically, politically, or anything-ly equal to men, but I just didn't understand why that was true. We're all just people; I couldn't wrap my head around why anatomical differences have engendered so many contentions and inequities. I still can't, although now I am more educated on the subject. 

I went to a very progressive middle and elementary school, an environment in which we had weekly lectures and activities about racial equality and LGBTQ rights (this was before the umbrella term trans* was created), but I don't recall ever discussing women's issues. When I began reading Rookie Mag--where nearly everyone on the staff is either a self-proclaimed feminist, a women's rights supporter, or something in between--was around when I started to understand what feminism actually means. I had always dismissed it as some sort of extreme movement that involved misandry, bra burning, and public protests, like the time Eric and Donna go to a feminist demonstration in an episode of That '70s Show. That was about the extent of my knowledge. I had never bothered to further enlighten myself because we are taught that feminism is something negative, and the subject was so foreign to me that I didn't even want to get involved. As I entered deeper into the trenches of my adolescence, I went around thinking that if someone looked at me lecherously or made an unwelcome sexual comment that it was my fault. I had led them on, in some way. So I stopped wearing V-neck t-shirts and never thought about it. Even at my equal-rights-for-everybody-even-though-we-only-talk-about-certain-groups-of-people-because-they're-minorities-and-women-aren't school we were taught, "Don't get raped," never "Don't rape." That never seemed out of place to me. It's extremely stifling and maddening to live in a world that objectifies women to such a degree that we don't even notice it anymore; that's how large a part of our society it has become. Or, I guess, always has been, for millennia. I only recently realized that as a teenage girl I was being affected by misogyny, disrespect, and degradation just by simply existing.


The fashion industry is one of the main propellants of the rigid concepts of femininity and womanhood that are held so highly in our culture. For decades, even centuries, women have been expected to either be a perfect combination of elegance, sexual appeal, and vulnerability, or urged to act more like men. Even with revolutionary members of the media popping up everywhere--Lena Dunham, Tavi Gevinson, Miranda July--women are only being more forcibly squished into these molds. We all already know that the supermodel-skinny standards are a major part of what's dragging us, meaning females, down. That topic deserves an entire article in and of itself, but it's not all that the fashion world is contributing to this huge dilemma. It's the clothing itself. It's a topic that I've written about before, without really knowing what I was saying. Taking a tip from the boys, menswear for women, things of that ilk. That concept has taken a turn for the worst.

While reading the Man Repeller a few months ago, Leandra Medine mentioned that in order to embody "swag," one must look like a male sixth grader: messy cropped hair, boyish clothing, baseball caps, the whole deal. I admire and respect Leandra immensely, but I felt that she had almost betrayed her fellow ladies in this post through words like: "achieving 'cool' is wholly about how well a girl can emulate a prepubescent boy." My immediate response to her story was a big, bolded, upper-cased WHY? I understand that this could potentially be misconstrued as me being ridiculously sensitive, but hear me out. Here's what I'm seeing. Looking cool now entails dressing like guys. That would be fine, if the same had ever been true for the opposite sex. When has it ever been considered trendy for a man to wear a dress, or heels, or another garment of clothing generally associated with women? Approximately never, except for in the seventeenth century, when almost everybody in the aristocracy wore heels. And Marc Jacobs's pink polo dress that he wore to the opening of his museum exhibition in Paris last year doesn't count. Marc Jacobs is not a valid representation of the general male population. 

I don't personally feel the need to wear anything characteristically feminine in order to feel good about myself or how I am presenting myself to the world. That probably stems from the fact that I grew up completely unaware of how these injustices applied to me. Do my androgynous tendencies--short hair, near exclusion of pink in my wardrobe, very little makeup, unshaved legs--imply that I am actively aspiring to look like a teenage boy? Not in the least bit. I like my loose jeans as much as I like my shift dresses. I cut my hair short because I hate feeling weighted down by masses of dead cells on my head. I don't wear pink because it makes me feel like a sickly amalgamation of an infant and cotton candy. I don't wear a lot of makeup, if any at all, partly because I hate having to worry about taking it off at night, partly because I prefer to present myself in my most natural form. I stopped shaving my legs because I have much better things to be doing with my time. I dress the way I want to because I like the way my clothing looks. 

One of the greatest misconceptions about people interested in fashion and clothing is that they care too much about their appearance. It takes a significant amount of indifference towards other people and their judgements to walk outside into a world where everyone feels entitled to share their opinions on every subject, whether they be valuable or completely uncalled for. That translates directly into the issue about women's rights. People make comments, assumptions, and evaluations on women's semblance all the time, thinking we crave their approval, that we strive for their acceptance. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth. Some women definitely seek that sort of confirmation, but that often is a result of insecurity or lack of self-confidence. That isn't to say that ladies that choose to ignore others' criticisms on their looks are not insecure, nor is it to say that women who attire themselves in a more sexualized manner are doing so for the benefit of those around them. This may somewhat of a mantra for feminists, and hopefully eventually for every person: we are not trying to look a certain way for you, whoever you may be. I don't know who gave the general populace the power to decide who is a "slut," or at least looks like one, and who is not, but they should feel pretty crappy right about now because they are painfully fallacious. I don't think that word should even exist; I don't believe that promiscuity is so terrible as long as no one is hurt, either emotionally or physically, in the process. A woman has a right to use her body how she wants just as much as a man does. I've always wondered why nearly every rape story I've heard or read about involves a male rapist. What it is about penises that makes men think they can just stick them everywhere? I have a supposition that it has less to do with biology and more to do with social hierarchy. It boils down to the fact that women are simply not considered equal to men. 

When we ask ourselves where this inequality stems from, it's easy to say that way back in the Paleolithic and Neolithic Eras the men were the ones that hunted and the women tended to the children. The latter's fatal infirmity was their inherent femaleness: the menstruation and subsequent complications, the decreased ability to maintain dense muscle mass, et cetera. Men saw themselves as superior because they could go out and spear a buffalo for the whole clan and not have to worry about doubling over in pain from cramps or what have you. Sure, women have their weaknesses, but men don't? They absolutely do. The number one argument that I feel neutralizes everything is that women can have babies, and men can't. In theory, that should give us immense power, but it doesn't. Instead, guys just went ahead and took the liberty of impregnating women without their consent. I know it's completely inarticulate, but my instinctual response to that is: what the hell. I've never been pregnant before but I have taken freshman biology and I know plenty of people that have bore children, and it sounds like having a small person growing inside of you doesn't feel so fantastic. Forcing that on someone who has not asked for it is one of the most heinous crimes I can think of. Perhaps that's one reason why we don't see a lot of female rapists: we're at a higher risk of suffering the consequences of having non-assented sex both physically and socially. 

As a high school student and teenager, my future is like a massive, daunting, multi-colored cloud that looms ahead of me at all times. I have high hopes for that cloud. I want to be able to pursue a career in something I enjoy and not have to be concerned about whether my male occupationally equivalent colleague is getting more perks or has a higher salary purely because of my physical constitution. People's intellectual capabilities are purely a result of how much work they put into cultivating their garden, to cite Voltaire. In other words, my brain and all it can do and create is a product of my own labor, not genetic chance. 

I often think back to the time in my life when I had no idea what sort of unjustified prejudice I was in danger of facing because of my chromosomal makeup. I was ignorant and had been brainwashed by the patriarchal society we live in that, as a female, it was my duty to protect myself from harm but to simultaneously exude femininity. That only works if you're the only person you're ever around. There's no way to control what other people perceive as suggestive or girly (not that the two are synonymous in any way), thus it is impossible to satisfy everybody's personal requirements. If that's the case, then I don't see why I should bother trying to live up to the world's expectations for me as a woman. I would much rather strive to please others on the basis of what is expected of me as a human being. That's what we all are. Male, female, non-cisgender, somewhere in between, we are all just people. What baffles me is why we can't treat each other as equally as the universe intended us to be. If we were supposed to have hierarchal distinctions within our race, some of us would be born with five extra retractable limbs and x-ray vision. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I highly doubt that anyone possesses those abilities. 

Feminism is not about hatred or anger or misandry. It is not negative. Feminists are not intrinsically evil, nor are they lesbian by default, nor do they wish to purge the Earth of all non-women. "Male feminists" shouldn't have to be a term that distinguishes men that promote equity from those that don't. All of this is about equality and freedom and love. It isn't up to us to decide our anatomical structure, but we can most definitely choose to act in particular ways despite our natural differences. The power rests entirely in our hands to change, if not reverse, the undeniable misogyny of the world we live in. Once people can stop defining each other by their gender, appearance, ethnicity, or any other uncontrollable quality of ours, and begin to appraise one another based on the substance of our thoughts and merit of our deeds, we'll be on the right track. 



Monday, November 19, 2012

To Be or Not To Be


 It all started with institutionalized education. Well, really, it began with an entrepreneurial Harvard student trying to connect the world. Mark Zuckerberg and his social media successors aside, my initiation into a world of Facebook-obsessed adolescents was highly unpleasant. Despite the fact that making friends with real live people was taxing enough for my timid freshman self, the true struggle existed on the Internet. I often think about how glad I am that I escaped.

I'm not writing this to preach an anti-social media doctrine. I'm writing this because social media is a defining characteristic of modern life, and that scares me more than I dare to say. I used to spend hours cultivating meaningless and superficial friendships with people on Facebook who wouldn't wave to me in the hallways. Why should they wave? I would ask myself. We don't really know each other anyway. I said this as a way to convince myself of something that I still can't identify. At the time I barely believed it, but in retrospect it was an accurate statement. I recently learned that what I thought was an acquaintance's last name was not her surname at all. Little (although that seems kind of large to me) nuances like that made me realize just how phony it all is. And since most people's lives exist primarily on their computers and phones, I really do mean all of it.

A month or so ago, I attended a fashion conference in New York City. One of the first panels was about the immense power of social media: Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, Tumblr, and so on. The panelists raved for half an hour about how Tweeting is therapeutic and how they can't live without their iPhones. They ceaselessly touted the advantageous effects of being immersed in online culture. They assured us that a brand's Twitter interactions are nearly as important as their products themselves. As I typed out notes on what these people told me, I couldn't help but feel like I was writing down lies. I refused to believe that my future relies on how well I can condense my thoughts into one hundred forty characters. When it was time for questions, I raised my hand and asked, “If I am a fashion blogger and I don't want to get involved in social media, but I attend fashion shows and events, can I still be successful in the industry?” Everyone in the room—and those watching the event being live-streamed on their computers—stared at me. There was a slight pause as hundreds of eyes looked at me in disbelief. Joe Zee, the creative director of Elle magazine, drew the microphone up to his lips and said something along the lines of, “I guess my question to you is, why don't you want to get involved? This is your ticket.” I feebly attempted to explain my standpoint on the issue, but with editors and bloggers and the like surrounding me at all angles, I couldn't bring myself to tell them how fake it all seems without seriously offending every single person there. I believe that that was the moment at which the conflict become clear to me: to participate, or to not?

I deleted my Facebook account in the middle of this past summer. I had been on vacation with my family in California, and we had left the day after my state-regulated exams were over. I was hanging out in Hollywood, and all I could think about was what was going on back home, and what was so-and-so doing, and gosh, they look like they're having fun, I haven't spoken to my friends in days. It was torturous. I mentioned one day to my mother and sister that I was considering deactivating my account, and both of their immediate reactions were “no.” They asked me why in the world would I do that? This was my mother telling me this. That kind of threw me off. Aren't moms supposed to want their children off of Facebook? I guess that only applies to the mothers that don't have accounts themselves. I tried to tell them that it was depressing me, that I got nothing positive out of obsessively watching over other peoples' lives, that I had already wasted so much precious time doing absolutely nothing, the latter of which is easily one of my biggest fears. I had driven myself mad and become instantly miserable because such-and-such person hadn't responded to my wall post, or hadn't liked my comment. Just take a moment to think about how ridiculous this all sounds. Mere decades ago, if someone didn't pick up the phone, it was most likely because they weren't home, not because they hated you and were trying to ignore you. Now, if somebody doesn't “like” someone's “wall post,” they go berserk. Whatever all of this was, I wanted out, and I needed to extricate myself immediately. As soon as I got back from my trip, I sent a private message out to the friends I wanted to stay in touch with (the list consisted of ten or twelve people at the most) telling them that I was deleting my Facebook and if they needed or wanted to reach me, here was my email address. I clicked the “deactivate” button, and it was all over. I was free.

I spent the rest of the summer nearly completely out of touch with the outside world, save for those people that I had called or sent text messages to and the people that were in a room with me. Since blogging is often (at least for me) a one-sided conversation, I don't count it as a social media platform; therefore, I was basically isolated from everything social for two months. If deleting my account taught me anything, it was how to weed out my real friends from the fake ones. People that I thought were close companions didn't remember my birthday because Facebook didn't remind them when it was. Nobody but my aunt called me to wish me a happy birthday that day. To be fair, most of my friends were at camp and weren't allowed to have phones with them, but all of those insincere wall posts I had gotten in past years from people I sort of knew were no longer a part of the picture. At the time, I was convinced that I had simply dropped off the face of the earth. To everybody else, I was gone, and they hadn't ever cared enough to notice now. I was even slightly content with going on living like that, maybe forever, only spending time with people I wanted to, or sometimes seeing nobody at all. It was a tranquil lifestyle, except for those frequent moments when I would wonder what my friends were doing and if they remembered that I existed. Sometimes I cared, but most often I didn't. I was done trying so hard to make everyone notice me. Fading into the background was so much easier.

When I returned to school in the fall, I didn't dread the actual start of school and what the academic year would bring: I dreaded seeing everyone that I knew once again. I knew that I would have to combat against everyone's, “Why did you delete your Facebook?” questions, even though I knew I could never tell them the truth. There was no way I was going to inform them that it was their fault, in a way. That would seem far too condescending. I still feel uncomfortable telling people that I don't have a Facebook account despite the fact that I'm extremely proud of it. I broke out of the mold, and I am happier because of it. The sick, twisted part of our society is that I feel bad when telling people that, essentially, I am different from them. This pressure to be like everybody else, in spite of how much everyone propagates the concept of individuality, is so overwhelming that separating oneself from others in any way is absurdly isolating.

Recall the anecdote I told at the beginning of this article about the fashion conference. When a famous magazine editor challenged my views on social media in front of hundreds of people, there was no way I was going to argue with him about it. It wasn't because he was the ever-fabulous Joe Zee. It was because I was literally the only person in the entire room that had that perspective on the topic, and pursuing a conversation about something that is much more personal than it seems on the surface in front of a crowd of strangers did not seem appealing. It still doesn't. What scared me was that they didn't get it, not one bit. No one there could wrap their minds around the prospect of doing away with hashtags and Twitter handles, with reblogging and Pinning, with “likes” and wall posts.

Call me old-fashioned, because maybe I am. But it frightens and disappoints me that my laptop accepts Facebook, Twitter, and Tumblr as words, while it does not recognize an Old English word (certes). My intention with this article was not, as I mentioned previously, to berate you all for having Facebook or Twitter accounts. It was to make people aware of the toll this new culture has on us as humans. Perhaps it is because I am a strong believer in the power of language, physical interaction, and out-dated methods of communication, but I worry every day that we are ruining ourselves. The world has become so open and lawless that there's nowhere to hide anymore. Life is becoming exceedingly more like Project Runway: one day you're in, and the next day, you're out. I've made the conscious decision to live on the “outside,” but what does that mean for my career as a member of the fashion industry, or any industry, for that matter? My hunch is that it does not portend good things.

The real struggle is whether we participate or not. If we choose to get involved, we run the risk of becoming dependent on our online interactions, a thought that I can barely comprehend. If we choose to stay away from social media, we run the equally terrifying risk of becoming outcasts. Both of these possibilities' likelihood and intensity increases daily, so the time to decide is now. Are you in, or are you out? 
See this article on the Huffington Post, if you feel like hopping over there.


Tuesday, September 18, 2012

The Lensman's Struggle

[Photo by me.]

I used to have the utmost respect for street style photography. When I discovered its existence just days before I began my blog, I kept the nine pictures I'd collected off the internet in a folder on my computer and looked at them every night before I went to sleep for inspiration. I hoped that the skill with which these women had crafted their outfits would rub off on me and I would magically be able to recreate what they had worn in terms of my own wardrobe. It has taken me over a year to realize that that isn't really the point. What someone else chooses to dress their body in is not necessarily what I should dress my body in—if this were the case, the term personal style would carry no weight at all. As sad as it is, the latter statement is slowly gaining truth. And what is fueling this decline but street style photography itself?

Gasp in disbelief, let your jaw drop in shock, react however you will, but the camera is killing individuality. I hadn't fully been aware of it until Fashion Week this September, and it seems the same realization just dawned on everyone else, including the New York Times and the Man Repeller. One would think that due to the influx of inspiration coming at as from every angle, personal style would be flourishing. It's quite the contrary: we have been overloaded with pictures of every blogger wearing the same shoes and the “it” jacket that we just need to have them. But who is to blame—those behind the lens or those in front of it?

Street style photography developed a solid reputation decades ago beginning with Bill Cunningham. I consider him to be the founder of the craft. Aside from Bill, there weren't many other cameramen and camerawomen competing for a picture of Anna dello Russo as she hailed down a taxicab. Scott Schuman, the Sartorialist, started his blog in 2005 and reinstated street photography as a reputable career. He has maintained the integrity of the craft, but he is one of the few. During New York Fashion Week, amateurs with DSLRs flock Lincoln Center hoping for a glimpse and a few shots of their favorite fashion icons, but most often get the wannabes in expensive clothing attempting to stand out in the crowd. I am not in any position to say who is not staying true to their personal aesthetic, but it's someone, because everyone looks the same. The young woman teetering across the Plaza in her Jeffrey Campbell Litas in a peplum dress from Zara holding an envelope clutch under her arm while checking Twitter on her iPhone 4S, despite the time she spent painstakingly making herself camera-ready and fashion blog-worthy, will not be photographed by the likes of Garance DorƩ. She will be snapped by people like me, those trying to feel out the scene and look like we know what we're doing.

For my first two seasons at Fashion Week, I was that overzealous girl taking a picture of anyone who was being photographed by everyone else with a camera. I remember distinctly taking a picture of someone walking across Lincoln Center and then hearing someone shout, “Be original!” turned around, and saw a man who had presumably taken the same picture. I was offended and annoyed that he had insulted my originality. Why couldn't I have the same photo as him if I liked what that woman was wearing? At the time, I rejected his opinion. But a year later, I realize now that though his method of communicating it was wrong, his idea was right. When everyone has the same picture of the same person, we post it on our respective blogs and websites and subsequently saturate the Internet with a harmful subliminal message. We are telling those who see this person repeatedly on their computer screen that this is fashion; this is what was deemed worthy by Mr. Newton and Tommy Ton. Anything else is subpar. The issue with this is that it isn't true. Fashion is subjective, and saying otherwise is highly hypocritical. What is trendy one season maybe be considered an eye sore a few years later. Take the emerging trend of wearing colorful running shoes with tailored clothing: a mere few months ago, if a woman wore her Nikes out on the street, she wasn't considered fashionable, she was seen as a bum that couldn't handle wearing three-inch heels to buy groceries. But as soon as Leandra Medine sports (no pun intended) sneakers with one of her sartorial creations, everyone realizes that maybe they aren't as dorky as they thought. Soon thereafter, everyone miraculously owns a pair of offensively bright trainers.

Street style photography has become somewhat of a meter that bloggers and show-goers measure their outfits against, and consequently their self-confidence is either compromised or boosted. Being photographed by an established photojournalist produces a feeling of self-worth and seemingly commands respect, from the point of view of the subject. When my picture was taken by Bill Cunningham in February during Fashion Week, I was elated; I gushed about it to everyone I knew hoping to garner squeals of excitement and jealousy, which I did. As Leandra put it, “When I do find myself wearing snap-appropriate garb though, there is an undeniable ego-stroking-rush about standing amid a bike lane by Pier 59, clutching my purse and coyly smiling at an army of click-click-clicks, calling my name and asking me to look over.” Obviously, I wasn't bombarded by a sea of enthusiastic photographers, but the feeling is the same. As ecstatic as I was to share the news with the world that the Bill Cunningham had photographed little ol' me, I had a nagging feeling in my gut telling me that it was all a sham. Maybe it was the masochistic part of my brain trying to strip the pleasure out of an event that was really too good to be true. But maybe it wasn't true after at all. It did happen, of course, but did Bill photograph me, or my clothes? After hours of contemplation, I defeatedly concluded that he was after what I was wearing, but those garments were not representative of my style. The success was illegitimate in my eyes after this point of realization. Let's be real: I never would have worn graphic printed cropped pants with an ostrich feather coat and glittery platform shoes on a regular day. I knew I was going to be in Lincoln Center during a time of day when the tents would be thriving with life, and I dressed accordingly. There isn't anything wrong with dressing up for an occasion, but I have a lot of problems with wearing certain clothes to receive praise from others. Like Leandra, I admit that sometimes, or even often, depending on the time of year, I “put something on and either veto or acknowledge it’s power to instigate a photo-snap.” It's terrible and I know it, but the rush of joy derived from others' appreciation and acceptance is hardly worth compromising, according to anyone striving for attention in the fashion world.

Social media platforms such as Tumblr, Instagram, Pinterest, and even fashion blogs are responsible for this shift in authenticity within the street style sphere. Bloggers are often paid to wear certain brand's clothing as an advertising ploy—they are prepared to rattle off a list of who they're wearing at any given moment. It's difficult to tell who is wearing their own clothes and when people are being planted in certain places to drive business. In a New York Times article written by Ruth La Perla last week on this topic, the founder of Digital Brand Architects was quoted saying, “We use stylists, we do color correction and Photoshopping, we scout locations every day. It often takes hours just to find the perfect street corner.” That isn't street style photography. That is a magazine shoot. As tough as it is to differentiate between genuine and fake photo subjects, it may be just as hard to decide which photographers are staying true to their profession. Scott Schuman is one of the cameramen who is devoted to his career and does not see street style as a popularity contest; not-so-incidentally, he is one of the most successful of his kind. In an interview with the website Fashionista, Schuman said, “There is that element–the [person who] totally wants to get shot, and dressed crazy...The people who shoot that and the people who dress like that, kind of deserve each other. It’s the people who want to be famous, shot by people who want to make their blog famous.” He hit the proverbial nail on the head.

I try to collect and post content on this blog that embodies my personal taste and ideas, but sometimes it's harder than it looks. I advocate for an "I dress for myself and no one else" doctrine on personal style, but when everyone else is wearing expensive, well-known brands, high heels, and lots of make-up to a fashion show, I can't help but feel naĆÆve, underdressed, and out of place in my homemade pants, hand-me-down riding boots, my school backpack, and a bare face. I almost feel like apologizing, as though I should be sorry for not being as put-together as everyone else. But I know that if I were to walk into a room wearing something that I didn't wholly believe was crafted in my own brain for the purposes of self-expression and practicality, I would feel exponentially worse. Scott Schuman understands this concept as well: “When I shoot her [the girl on the cover of his book] it’s not at all about the brands, or about how much it costs. It’s the way she puts it together. It’s the persona that she’s building.” Those with a true love of fashion, not fame, and an eye for style, can see when someone is a diamond in the rough and when they blend into the background. 


Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Fair Trade: A Utopian Concept Surviving in a Dystopia

It's been quite a long time since I've written anything worthy of publishing on the Huffington Post, but following The Rebirth I suddenly rediscovered my love of recreational writing. I've recently been fascinated by the concept of fair trade, among other things, so over the past few weeks I've been doin' my research and writing up a storm. Now without further ado, I present to you the fruits of my labor. All three pages of it. Enjoy. 

This should be published on the Huffington Post within a few days' time. If that format is somehow more appealing to you then by all means wait until then to read it; I'll be posting the link up here, of course.

***

I was nine years old the first time I encountered the concept of fair trade. The students in the grade above me had studied organic fair trade coffee companies and had put up signs around my elementary school advocating for them. I knew the meaning of the words 'fair' and 'trade' in separate contexts, but for some reason my mind could not put the two together to figure out what the phrase meant as a whole. There's a slight chance I thought Fair Trade Coffee was the name of a cafĆ©. I didn't pursue the topic any further after the signs came down, and the idea quickly left my head, only popping in to say hello and remind me of its existence every year or so. I would look at it and think, “Huh, that's interesting,” and then dismiss it. The idea of fair trade didn't resurface entirely until I was reading up about the wonderful human that is Emma Watson, when I stumbled upon the information that she had collaborated with a clothing brand called People Tree. I love Emma Watson and I also love fashion, so by common logic I thought I would love People Tree. It is quite rare that situations work out that way for me, but this time it did. I clicked the cute curlicue text button and was brought to People Tree's website. I saw a tab on the page that mentioned something about fair trade—the little old man in my brain started running through the archives of my mind and pulled out the file I'd stored in there for future reference about the topic...and found it empty. This is a common occurrence. When there is a void in my realm of knowledge it must be filled! I thought. If only this was how I felt about my academic subjects. As I began reading the passionately worded (yet tasteful) information page on People Tree's website, I slowly realized that fair trade was not such a foreign topic. It was in fact one that I had already thought about and discussed, it had just never been given a title in my head. The more I read, the more involved I became with the subject. Child labor?! No way, guys. Women not receiving equal pay for equal work?! You kidding me? Unhealthy and unsafe working conditions?! How is this still a thing? All of these issues came up during my freshman biology class (we had a fairly liberal teacher; we tended to digress from the subject at hand and have vehement arguments about government and corporate corruption) and I would continue to grumble angrily to my friends during lunch about how ridiculous the world is. We all know that actions speak louder than words, especially when the words are quietly expressed, poorly phrased, and consequently incomprehensible. The fact that organizations such as People Tree, Fair Indigo, and World Fair Trade Organization are actually doing things put my mumbling to shame. As lame as I felt while reading about fair trade, it motivated me to take action through my writing. Raising awareness is not as effective as starting a company that engages in fair trade, but I feel as though doing that at age fifteen is a bit too ambitious. Trust me, that is a future goal.

I've gotten this far without mentioning any real information on the topic—remember the whole irate rambling issue I have? If my seventh grade English teacher was correct, particulars come before analysis, not the other way around. Without further ado, I give you...solid facts so hard that if you were to throw them, you could potentially harm a puppy. Not that you should ever try to cast intagible objects at innocent canines or anything like that.

According to World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO), “The term Fair Trade defines a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers – especially in developing countries.” The trading system is centered around three main themes that I have extracted from my research: compensation, equality, and honesty. These are the key to successful commerce in any field, yet most people seem to forget to incorporate any of the three into their business practices. It baffles me that the world market has become so convoluted and corrupt that such simple morals as treating workers fairly and with respect have become atypical. It is now considered the norm for a large corporation to recruit child laborers, to pay below the minimum wage, and to take advantage of their employees' social positions. WFTO began “writing the rules” for fair trade around twenty years ago because the concept's popularity started to increase around that time. Now, the organization is considered one of—if not the primary—the authorities on ethical dealings worldwide, from production to sales and everything in between. WFTO does not discriminate against the businesses they advocate for (that would be against their rules, silly!) as long as they comply with the group's ten basic principles. Sounds easy enough, right? Some organic cotton here, some alienated seamstresses there, and voilĆ ! Just pop it in the microwave for ninety seconds and you're done. If only creating a fair trade certified company was as easy as Orville Redenbacher claims making popcorn is—and if you're me, the latter isn't too simple either.

The first of these criteria is that the company creates opportunities for producers or craftspeople that are at an economic disadvantage. The organization must support small family businesses, assocations or cooperatives in order to give them financial independence and make them self-sufficient. The second rule discusses transparency and accountability. If you're like me and don't understand these words beyond their use in Chase Bank advertisements, I'll simplify this concept. Essentially, the organization has to be honest with their workers and trading alliances as well as allow them the opportunity to partake in decision-making processes. Rule number three is kind of a mouthful. To summarize, it states that the organization should not be participating in fair trade to maximize their profit at the expense of the producers, the company won't copy other peoples' designs without their permission, blahdiblahdiblah. To me, these are just basic principles of morality, but I guess respecting the labor of other human beings is too much to ask nowadays. Speaking of principles, the fourth one on WTFO's list is similar to the previous one: the prices are reasonable and mutually agreed upon by both sides. Criterion number five says that no forced and/or child laborers shall be employed in the making of fair trade items. The fact that things like these are guidelines for how to be a fair trade group bewilders me. Ethics, people. They are still relevant today. Apparently they were phased out with the obsolescence of parchment paper and ice boxes. Sixth on the list is one of my most highly favored: gender equality, freedom of association, and non-discrimination! Hooray! As a self-proclaimed feminist and budding social activist (I'm still in the angry-at-the-world-but-too-furious-to-do-anything phase), this topic naturally speaks to me. Let's get a bit hypothetical. Just because I can have babies, some guy that works just as hard as I do gets more money? Oh—oh, right, I see how that works now. Thanks for clearing that up. Maybe I'm a Buddhist, or perhaps I'm a member of the Church of Scientology; why should it matter if I'm doing my job well? It's probably because I usually poison each garment I make with a special potion I concocted that brainwashes everyone into worshipping Buddha or reaching a spiritual understanding with Tom Cruise. That tends to be the dealbreaker. If injustice were to take the form of howler monkey, the entire planet would have gone deaf by now. The next few rules are short, sweet, and to the point, starting with number seven: the organization must provide good working conditions. The eigth concept promises that the company will help their employees improve and grow, while the ninth states that it must promote and advocate for fair trade. Doing anything else would be counterproductive, don't you think? Last, but definitely not least—especially when the caramel candies in my cabinet are melting and peoples' eyelashes are sweating as we speak—guideline number ten tells organizations to channel Aretha Franklin and give the environment some well deserved R-E-S-P-E-C-T, the same way young children are told by television endorsements to respect Capri Sun pouches.

To some people, fair trade may symbolize a sort of ideal work force that can't possibly exist in our current economy. That is exactly what is so fascinating about it. Fair trade is a concept working against the grain of what is culturally and morally accepted in commerce. It's fighting the very system that has been oppressing, impoverishing, and manipulating our fellow humans for so many years. After all this time, it would seem impossible to make any permanent changes, yet fair trade organizations are doing it. As WFTO has eloquently phrased it, “Fair Trade is more than just trading: it proves that greater justice in world trade is possible. It highlights the need for change in the rules and practice of conventional trade and shows how a successful business can also put people first.” The terrible issue with all of the injustice in the trading industry is that the people who run the involved corporations tell lies. They lie about how much they will pay their employees, they lie to the public about how their products are made, and they lie to themselves about how unscrupulous their actions truly are. So many massive companies have pulled the wool over the majority of the consumers' eyes—no pun intended—that some people refuse to believe that fair trade is actually feasible, if not a more ethically correct alternative. As a confused factory owner once said to the fair trade clothing company Fair Indigo, “Let me get this straight. You want to pay the workers more than the minimum wage?” One can only imagine the tone of disbelief that accompanied these extremely disheartening words. If I were to paraphrase what he said, it would be something along the lines of: “Let me get this straight. You want to pay the people who support our global economy exactly what they deserve so that they don't starve on the streets or take their children out of school to help them work or lose every scrap of their integrity to a heartless corporation?” See, when it's put that way, it's quite difficult to justify his words. Because of people like this owner, two billion citizens of the world are attempting to survive on less than two dollars a day. A hot tea at Starbucks costs more than that. Therein lies the bone of contention.

We've discovered the problem, but can we fix it? I always enjoy drawing inspiration from children's cartoons, so in the words of Bob the Builder (not to mention our president, but I like to think that Barack Obama took this catchphrase from the animated construction worker), “Yes we can!” Luckily, for all of you goodhearted but apathetic people out there, fair trade businesses have already done fifty percent of the work for us. For example, People Tree works “hard to make sure that all our dyeing has minimum impact on the wearer, the producer and the environment,” because they “reckon there's little point in taking pure and innocent organic cotton fibres to a big, belching garment factory, or saturating them in vats of toxic dye.” Fair Indigo states on their website that the fair trade prices that are set for commidities like coffee and tea strive to cover production costs as well as the cost of living—food, shelter, clothing, education, and medical care included. Fair trade groups don't just help out their workers, although even that much would be enough to surpass other companies. They aid the communities they work with to invest in development projects such as schooling, health care, and housing programs by having the employees set aside part of their income towards a social premium. Equitable treatment of workers? Check. Improvements in local communities? Check. Even our good old friend the environment benefits from fair trade. The farmers who participate in fair trade cooperatives don't use what Fair Indigo calls toxic agrochemicals that are often used to control pests. A decrease in utilization of harmful pesticides equals a happy Earth!

I am primarily a fashion journalist, so of course I must tie this all back into an apparel-related sub-topic. Fair Indigo has started making garments out of “organic and other ecologically friendly fabrics.” This may make their clothing more expensive, but isn't the higher price worth paying when you think about how many peoples' lives are improved—if not saved—by your purchase? Think about that glowing feeling you get when you know you've done something good for the world. I bet that has never happened to you from buying a shirt. Now it can. If nothing else, it's something you can cross off your bucket list: “Feel an overwhelming sense of gratification from purchasing a blouse.” Done. I urge you to also consider what the founders of Fair Indigo said about starting their business: “After years in the apparel industry, a small group of us decided to throw our corporate lives out the window and start something completely new.” Throw your metaphorical corporate life out of the proverbial window and start afresh by sustaining the earth and its inhabitants. This is change we can believe in. 

Friday, November 18, 2011

Trending Next Spring: Geometry

It feels so good to be back. I missed this. It was a pretty hectic week, so thank the good Lord above that it is Friday (note: I am not a Jesus freak).

I'll get to my quick life recap at the end of the post, as per yooj (yooj=usual), but this part is essential to mention before I dive into my next spring trend. I had a geometry test today, so I thought, "What better time to post about the shapes trend than today?" and then I answered, "No time!" to which I replied, "That was rhetorical."

Not to be confused with colorblocking, this trend is all about playing with geometric shapes. Like, literally playing with them. Maybe a game of tennis, or frisbee, if it's nice outside. I kid. You'll actually only be displaying shapes on your clothes: maybe not as active, but still plenty of fun. I can usually figure out the connections next spring's trends have with current or past trends, but I can't quite place this one. It was a very subtle shift, since the tribal patterns of last season and this season are so geometric, but the shift is there. That was a pun because Carolina Herrera actually did a shape-printed shift dress. Oh, fashion punz; how I love you so. I can't decide if that sentence butchered the English language, so I'll just move on.

The thing about this trend is that the actual shape and the placement of said shape is crucial. This is a trend easily gone wrong. The same way vertical stripes and chevrons are slimming, an awkwardly proportioned and placed square can make you look like a pumpkin. Not quite sure how, but I bet it can happen. It's a really fun trend if you do it right, so have fun with it! Shapes were created for a reason, and that reason was so people could wear them. 


Now for the moment we've all been waiting for: the photographic proof. Let's get this party started, shall we? 


All photos courtesy of style.com.

Make it a theme: 


                              Alberta Ferretti                                                                  Carolina Herrera
     

                                     CĆ©line                                                                              Chanel 
           

                               Nanette Lepore                                                                  Prabal Gurung
           

                                  Sass & Bide                                                                   Carolina Herrera
           


Add some shape(s) to your outfit: 


                             Alexander Wang                                                              Bottega Veneta
     

                                 Sass & Bide                                                          Stella McCartney
           


                                                                        Alberta Ferretti 


People that are ready to rock the trend full on are entitled to do so, while others who'd rather incorporate math more subtly may also do so. FASHION, YOU GIVE ME SO MANY OPTIONS THAT I'M OVERWHELMED.

Now for my quick life recap!
1. I have begun a legitimate project: I'm taking all the photos I've cut out of magazines and compiling them into a book. It's going to be the best book ever, and my holy shrine. Just sayin'.
2. My newest article on the Huffington Post went up yesterday! Check it out HERE!
3. I found this article to be a kind of a summary of my life.

That's all for now, guys! I'll be back in the game ASAP. You know I love this blog.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

When You Wish Upon A Star

Does this topic sound familiar? It might if you've been reading this blog since June (remember this post?) I don't know if you remembered, but I write for both the Huffington Post and Everybody Is Ugly, but I haven't published anything on HuffPost for a while. This is my next article. You guys get to see it before it goes on their website! How exciting! 

Enjoy, munchkins! 


I can't remember a time in my life when fashion and art were not a part of it. That's not an exaggeration, and may or may not have something to do with my short-term memory loss issues. When I was three, I was supposedly telling my mom what to wear (how I did this, I don't know) and had a pretty darn good sense of color too, also according to my mother. At age six, I used my first sewing machine, and my friend Lola and I started hand-sewing shirts on the weekends, just for kicks. I've got tons of appalling and embarrassingly bad sketches from when I was in elementary school stashed in a drawer. It was all good fun; I took a hand-sewing class after school for a semester once, drew some pictures in my free time, but it wasn't the focus of my life. Then came the summer before seventh grade, my first summer at the Fashion Institute of Technology. That might have been one of those turning points in my (short) life when I was like, “By golly, I know what I wanna do when I grow up!” I went back the next summer and focused on my drawing and painting skills and spent a ridiculous amount of time preparing for the LaGuardia High School admissions exam, which entailed hours of making art. All of my hard work paid off, and by the middle of 8th grade, I was on my way to completing my five-year plan (oh yes, you read that correctly. This is the very plan I had been following since age ten). Towards the end of my last year of middle school, I started my fashion blog, and ever since it's been one of the main focuses of my life. I took two more classes this past summer at FIT so I could learn how to sew and make patterns, and I've got two sewing machines and two mannequins in my forever-cluttered apartment. Every day at school, I do art for an hour and a half, and when I come home, I blog. I've got it all planned out: get an internship at a magazine or a brand, become discovered as a young talent, finish high school, go to college and take a semester or a year abroad in Paris, all while slowly building my own brand, so that by the time I'm 21, I've had it made. Is this unrealistic? Maybe a little. Is it normal for me to have my whole life planned out at age fourteen? No.

I definitely see the risks in having a plan such as mine. There are many, I'll tell you that much. The first problem that I face is that I'm overworking myself as a teenager. I look around me and see all my friends having a blast, just bein' kids. Then there's me, writing two articles a week for two different websites, updating my blog, reading magazines and drawing sketches during my free periods—that's actually just making me tired, thinking about it. I feel as though I'm missing out on experiencing the quintessential life of a teenager. But the conflict there is that if don't do all these things, my plan won't work. How do I expect to get an internship at Phillip Lim this summer if I haven't got any experience? This is the mind that I have to live with. I just keep piling things on because I think I'll have the time to do them, when I won't. I'll buy a new magazine when I've got ten more at home that I haven't so much as opened, or I'll begin a sewing endeavor that I'll give myself a week to complete, when in reality I won't start it until a month later. And then there's the other part of my brain, the non-fashion part, that wants me to be intelligent and well-rounded, that gives me all these additional dumb ideas. Here's a perfect example: the other day I was reading Jane Eyre, and the beautiful language used in the book made me think, “You know what would be great? Reading a dictionary.” I was dead serious. Consider yourselves lucky that you're not as crazy as I am.

You may be thinking, “What an ignorant little girl, thinking all her dreams will come true. She's in for a big shock when she grows up.” I'm fully aware that it's really difficult to make things happen the way you want them to. There are some people who work towards their dreams, and they make it. There are others who give up, and they don't get where they wanted to be. I think that if I try hard enough, it'll work out. I'm not like Monica from the television show “Friends,” who flips out if things don't go according to plan. I'm okay with getting somewhere the roundabout way, as long as I make it there eventually. I feel like you're still skeptical. I can prove to you that there are some determined people out there that are successful in the fashion industry at a young age. Let's bring up Alexander Wang. He launched his first full womenswear collection at age 24 after moving to New York from California to attend Parsons and dropping out his sophomore year. “Alexander Wang” is now a household name (depending on what household you're in), and he's only 27. Here's another example: Alexander McQueen, a legend at age 40. Those are some pretty young guys. People tend to think others that are younger than them to be inferior, but in the words of Haemon, from Sophocles' Antigone, “If am young, do not look at my years but what I do.” In the fashion industry, it's less about how old you are and more about how talented you are. When I sent out emails to different brands to see if they'd let me into their shows during New York Fashion Week, I told them how old I was, and I actually got to attend a show. Nowadays, everything is more accessible because of technology and the internet and such things that there are so many doors just waiting to be opened. There's no excuse for someone like me not to try to succeed, if this is really what I want to do. But that last phrase right there brings me to my final problem. How am I to know if this is really what I want to do?

Let's just say I follow my little procedure and nothing goes wrong (yeah, right). Let's skip ahead in the future to when I'm at the end of my plan, at age 21. What if somewhere along the way I discover that I want to be doing something else? My English teacher told us that for years, her dream was to be a journalist, and she succeeded in fulfilling her dream. One day she realized that she didn't want to do it anymore, and became a high school English teacher, the one thing she was sure she would never be when she was in high school. That scares me a little. Does that mean that I'll become an accountant? If so, let me correct my previous statement: that scares me a lot. The wonderful thing about fashion is that everyone is a hybrid of a few different things. There's blogger-designers, model-filmmakers, even the doctor-blogger-model-who-designs-jewelry-in-her-free-time-ers. Right now, I can't really see myself doing anything else, but if it came down to it, I know for a fact that I won't be going in the opposite direction and suddenly want to become a mathematician, or a biochemist, or a poet. There's just a certain beauty in clothing and art that I can never get over, because it's always changing. There's always something new. I get bored easily, so maybe that's why I could never work with something that's always the same. If I change my focus, chances are fashion is one step ahead of me and has already changed itself. 

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Trending Next Spring: Show Some Leg

And when I say "some leg," I mean your entire leg. Both of them.

This is the first in a series of many posts that will prove to you why next spring's trends are, well, trends. Using digital photographic proof. That I have been collecting for weeks. That's the big secret surprise blog project. And trust me, it's been well worth it. I feel so educated now.

If you have been keeping tabs on the spring 2012 collections, or have checked the Man Repeller recently (that girl is always one step ahead of me... and makin' me look unoriginal.) you'll have noticed that booty shorts, especially the high-waisted kind, are hot stuff for next season. They're one of the biggest trends of the season, actually. That's not the greatest news for me, since I don't wear really short things often ever, but it actually looks good on those runways. I'm excited to see how people interpret it. I'm sure the girls at my school are just ecstatic about this trend. It turns out April Johnston from Project Runway season 8 knew what she was doing when she sent her model down the runway in what Michael Kors described as a diaper.

Speaking of diapers, that's one of the things that you want to avoid looking like you're wearing when trying this trend. As a rule of thumb, unless you're buying Versace shorts, steer clear of white. J. Crew's version of the booty short looked a bit diaper-ish:


That's one way of how to not wear them well. I could go on and on about how to own those shorts (and work that up 'do), but instead I'll just show you. And awaaaaaaaay we go! 

(All photos courtesy of style.com)

Go all out cray-cray: 

                                        Chanel                                                               House of Holland
       

                                        D&G                                                                Dolce and Gabbana
                                       Rochas                                                            Balenciaga                   
      

Show your girly side: 

                         Alexander McQueen                                                               DKNY
             

                                  Versace                                                                    Yigal AzrouĆ«l 
           

Get sophisticated: 


                                     Erdem                                                                      Jason Wu
      

                                  Jill Stuart                                                                  Louis Vuitton
      
                             
                                                                               Vera Wang

Everyone's in on the act this season! From Chanel to Erdem to Vera Wang to Balenciaga, everyone was feeling the booty shorts vibe that was circulating around the designosphere. That's a phrase that I just made up, and it refers to the world of fashion designing, the way blogosphere refers to the world of blogging. 

This is the first of over 15 trends that I'm going to show you, so that there's something for everyone. GET EXCITED, GUYS!!! 

A few quick updates: 
1. I was published on Huffington Post High School today! Check out the article here.
2. My friend Ben Korman is working on my making my blog better, so a few of those pages at the top of the website might be wacking out a bit. It's all part of the process. 
3. Tonight on Project Runway, they're choosing the final three. I'm flipping out. If Anya doesn't win, it'll be Mondo-loss-depression all over again. 

Thank gooseness tomorrow is Friday, am I right?